Reader’s choice for Mediterranean in Portland Monthly

Esquire 11/05 Olea

PORTLAND, OREGON

Upon entering Olea in Portland’s bustling Pearl District, I was immediately delighted with its huge industrial windows, big kitchen, and approachable staff%u2014a convivial spot to drop in to for a drink. But when I sat down at a spacious, well-set table in the ninety-seat dining room and started feasting on chef Scott Shampine’s food, I knew I had found a winner.

While you could graze here forever on little plates of spiced olives, grilled dates, and arugula-topped focaccia, it’s better to go whole hog on Shampine’s lusty orecchiette pasta with an oxtail ragout scented with espresso; a lobster tart in truffled cream; sizzling, crisp-skinned, spit-roasted breast of duck with grilled melon, honey, and pistachios; and unremittingly rich braised bacon with green apples, lentils, and currants. Every dish is immensely satisfying, and you can eat better here for less money than at any other new restaurant on this list.

1338 Northwest Hoyt Street; 503-274-0800; olearestaurant.com.