The 20 Hamburgers You Must Eat Before You Die

6. California Burger, Houston’s

When you figure how many millions of burgers emerge from chain-restaurant kitchens, it’s not surprising that one of them gets it right. Houston’s, a big, bustling, commercial spot, nails its California Burger.

This burger had no flaws. Zero. The roll: soft and sweet, almost like brioche. The meat: coarsely ground and flavorful. The red onion: mild and crunchy. The cheese: fully melted Monterey Jack. The condiment: a touch of mustard-honey dressing. Avocado and arugula are another great touch. Houston’s California Burger is a rainbow of colors, and it’s comforting, perfect for soothing Santa Monica working stiffs after a hard morning at the macrame shop. And talk about burger engineering. I asked the manager about the sliver of greenery under the burger, and he said it was cabbage, put there to avoid untoward sogginess at the base of the bun.