Candelaria has the Canaries’ most important sanctuary, erected to honor the Virgin Mary, patron of the islands. It has also has one of the most spectacular black beaches I’ve ever seen. We arrived there one day after tropical storm Delta hit the islands, and the atmosphere was haunting: The sun was shining, but big clouds loomed over our heads, and across the Atlantic, one of the biggest rainbows I’ve ever seen arched across the sky, behind the monuments dedicated to the chieftains of the islands’ indigenous population.